OEKO-TEX®’s Inga Bleyer discusses PFAS in textiles, organic cotton traceability, and the growing role of certification in driving transparency and safety across global supply chains.

OEKO-TEX® is an independent testing and certification system for textile and leather products focused on ensuring consumer safety and responsible production standards across the global textile industry. Inga Bleyer serves as Head of Marketing and Communications, leading how the organization communicates its standards and mission to brands, manufacturers, retailers, and consumers.

Please introduce yourself to our readers and tell us a bit about your role and your organization.

Hello! I’m Inga Bleyer, Head of Marketing and Communications at OEKO-TEX®.

OEKO-TEX® is an independent testing and certification system for textile and leather products. Since 1992, our mission has been to build trust and transparency in the textile industry. When you see our label, it means that product has been tested against harmful substances and meets our strict safety criteria.

In my role, I oversee how we communicate our standards to brands, manufacturers, retailers, and consumers. It’s incredibly rewarding because we’re not just promoting a brand; we’re driving positive change in an industry that touches everyone’s daily life.

What makes OEKO-TEX® special is our holistic approach. We can certify every step of the textile production chain, from raw materials with our ORGANIC COTTON certification to the final product. This comprehensive view helps companies demonstrate their commitment to consumer safety and environmental responsibility.

It’s incredibly rewarding because we’re not just promoting a brand; we’re driving positive change in an industry that touches everyone’s daily life.

Why are PFAS in textiles and organic cotton such urgent topics right now?

PFAS, or “forever chemicals,” are urgent because they persist indefinitely in the environment and bioaccumulate in our bodies, with links to cancer and endocrine disruption. Governments are acting fast. For example, the EU is pursuing comprehensive bans and U.S. states like California and Maine have textile-specific restrictions taking effect within 2-3 years.

Companies need PFAS-free alternatives ready now, not when regulations finalize.

Organic cotton addresses a different crisis. Conventional cotton is one of the most pesticide-intensive crops in the world, contributing to water scarcity, soil degradation, and health risks for farming communities.

There’s mounting pressure from consumers and regulators for more sustainable materials, but also real concerns about authenticity in the supply chain. That’s why credible certification and traceability have become absolutely critical.

Both topics reflect a fundamental shift in our industry toward transparency and accountability. Consumers demand textiles that are safer for them and the planet.

But this requires early investment: reformulation and supply chain shifts take years, not months.

Both topics reflect a fundamental shift in our industry toward transparency and accountability.

Where do so-called “forever chemicals” still appear in everyday textile products?

PFAS still show up in more everyday products than most people realize. You’ll find them in sportswear like rain jackets and athletic gear, in home textiles like treated upholstery, bedsheets, mattresses, carpets, and curtains, and notably in personal protective equipment (PPE) such as firefighter turnout gear, chemical-resistant workwear, and healthcare uniforms.

The PPE category is particularly complex as firefighter uniforms have traditionally relied on PFAS for critical flame and chemical resistance.

This creates a troubling paradox: the very gear designed to protect firefighters may be exposing them to carcinogenic chemicals.

What surprises people most is that PFAS can appear as unintended contaminants from manufacturing processes or recycled materials, even in products where brands didn’t intentionally add them.

The challenge is that these chemicals have been the industry’s go-to solution for performance features consumers want.

Now we’re racing to find alternatives that provide similar functionality without the health and environmental risks.

That’s why testing and certification are so critical; brands need to verify their products are safer and meet regulatory limits throughout the entire supply chain.

PFAS still show up in more everyday products than most people realize.

How are regulations around PFAS changing, and what alternatives are emerging?

The regulatory landscape is shifting rapidly and varies significantly by region. In Europe, we’re seeing the most action. The EU is working toward a comprehensive PFAS restriction covering thousands of these substances. France has gone even further, becoming the first country to ban PFAS in cosmetics and textiles starting this year (2026), setting a precedent others may follow.

In the United States, it’s more fragmented, with states like California, Maine, and New York leading with their own restrictions on PFAS in textiles.

This patchwork creates real challenges for global brands needing consistent solutions across markets.

Importantly, regulations are tightening beyond intentional use. Newer rules also regulate PFAS impurities and unintentional residues, not just deliberate formulations. This means companies can’t simply claim they didn’t add PFAS; they need proof their entire supply chain is clean.

On alternatives, there’s significant innovation. We’re seeing bio-based water-repellent treatments from natural waxes and plant oils, new fluorine-free chemistries, and even physical fabric constructions that achieve water resistance through structure rather than chemistry.

The honest truth is that not all alternatives perform exactly like PFAS, especially in extreme conditions.

But technology is improving rapidly, and for most everyday applications, we now have viable options.

The key is helping brands identify which alternatives work for their specific needs and ensuring those alternatives are truly safer, not just substituting one problem chemical for another.

That’s where independent testing becomes essential.

The regulatory landscape is shifting rapidly and varies significantly by region.

What should consumers look for when shopping for safer and more sustainable textiles?

Look for credible certifications from independent third-party organizations. Labels like OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 mean products have been tested against harmful substances and are safer for use. For sustainability, look for certifications covering environmental and social criteria like OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN.

Be skeptical of vague claims like “eco-friendly” without backing. These terms aren’t regulated. Look for specific standards the product meets.

The reality is that truly sustainable and safe textiles might cost more, but they’re an investment in your health and the planet. And buying less but better is one of the most sustainable choices you can make. A well-made garment that lasts for years beats low quality fashion that ends up in a landfill. The good news is that consumer demand is driving change. The more people ask these questions and choose certified products, the more the industry has to respond.

Buying less but better is one of the most sustainable choices you can make.

How can certification help address greenwashing in organic cotton and sustainability claims?

Greenwashing is a known problem in the textile industry. Sustainability claims are common, but verification remains challenging for consumers. Certification provides independent verification. When a third-party tests and audits a product, you’re not just trusting what a company says about itself; you’re trusting an independent assessment against defined standards.

For organic cotton specifically, the challenge is traceability. Cotton passes through ginning, spinning, weaving, dyeing, and manufacturing. Without proper tracking, conventional cotton can easily get mixed in. Certification systems require documentation and verify them at every stage to prove organic integrity is maintained.

At OEKO-TEX®, our approach includes laboratory testing, on-site audits, and supply chain verification. We’re checking that organic cotton is genuinely organic and that the entire product meets safety criteria (this includes product components like buttons, zippers, and thread as well).

Our standards evolve continuously based on the latest scientific research and regulatory developments. Brands must reapply and be retested annually to maintain certification, ensuring they keep pace with advancing requirements.

It’s an ongoing commitment, not a one-time achievement.

Certification provides independent verification.

What role does OEKO-TEX® play in improving supply chain transparency globally?

Supply chain transparency is fundamental to creating a safer, more sustainable textile industry, and it’s central to what we do. Currently, we work with over 35,000 companies globally, from cotton farms to garment manufacturers and retailers.

This network creates transparency across borders and throughout complex, multi-tiered supply chains. A brand in Europe can verify that organic cotton was properly handled at every stage, even if it was grown in India, spun in Turkey, and sewn in Bangladesh.

Our annual recertification requirement is crucial. Facilities must maintain standards year after year, creating accountability and continuous improvement. We also provide tools and data that help brands communicate their supply chain story to consumers.Transparency isn’t just about internal tracking; it’s about giving consumers the information they need to make informed choices.

Global textile supply chains are incredibly complex, but that complexity can’t be an excuse for opacity.

Certification creates structure, accountability, and visibility where it’s needed most.

Supply chain transparency is fundamental to creating a safer, more sustainable textile industry.

What do you hope readers take away from OEKO-TEX®’s work in this space?

I hope readers come away understanding that the choices we make as consumers really do matter, and there are tools available to help us make better decisions.

The textile industry is at a critical turning point.

The issues we’ve discussed, PFAS contamination, greenwashing, supply chain opacity, aren’t going away on their own.

But there’s genuine momentum for change.

You don’t have to be an expert to make safer, more sustainable choices.

Look for credible certifications, ask questions, and support brands that prioritize transparency.

Every purchase is a vote for the kind of industry you want to see.

I also want people to understand that progress takes time.

Creating truly sustainable and safe textiles requires transforming complex global supply chains.

But the direction is clear.

At OEKO-TEX®, we’re committed to providing independent verification and transparency that makes real change possible.

But this transformation requires all of us, brands, certifiers, regulators, and consumers, working together.

We all deserve products that are safe for our health and our planet, and I believe we’re moving toward making that the standard, not the exception.

Every purchase is a vote for the kind of industry you want to see.